Yoke

Double the Pleats

I did sewing at high school through all the years. This is where I found I loved sewing and that there were so many possibilities ! I found so much inspiration going to class and seeing what everyone else was making, Have to say, made me enjoy school! I spent my lunch times and free periods in there and even stayed after school longer just so I could go hang out in the sewing room.

When I was there I fell in love with pleats. Not sure why, maybe it was seeing all the kilts around school…? So naturally I made some skirts with pleats, the first skirt I don’t have anymore, but it was maroon with 5 pleats on the left side and a yoke waist. I remember it clearly !

 One of the first things I made was a fully lined box pleated skirt (2 pleats on the front and 2 on the back). This was actually one of my favourite skirts. It was made of black Drill and had a bright pink tartan fabric inserted in the pleats. Since I made this in 7th form it has been well worn and through a couple of zip changes. It is well faded now though, sigh *sad face*.

In my second year of university I really wanted to make this pattern again, absolutely loved that skirt! However, I couldn’t follow the first pattern I made as I didn’t clearly label it and it was made of really thick paper. So I just remade the whole pattern, which was easier since I wasn’t putting a different fabric insert into the pleats.

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The pattern (if I remember this correctly since I did make it 4 years ago) started as a block pattern to my personal measurements. I then measured sellotaped the darts together and cut from the hem to the bottom of the dart in a straight line – creating an A-line pattern.

I measured 10cm from the top and cut this out all the way around which became my yoke.

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From here I measured the same distance from the centre front (CF) top to bottom and the same for the centre back (CB).

On these new lines I then measured 20cm away from the CF and CB which were the fabric for my box pleats.

For those who don’t know what a box pleat is, it’s when both sides of the pleat are folded in together. Box pleats can come as both inward and outward. However, I don’t really like box pleats that go the opposite way to this, probably because it reminds me of a really ugly school uniform I was made to wear.

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I like lined skirts.

And

I like invisible zips.

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I made the pink floral skirt first (see below) as soon as I made this pattern, and stayed up ’til about 5 in the morning finishing it, ah, the student life !

The blue one I starting making 2 years ago and came back to it midyear last year to complete.

I had made the pattern with an extra flare of about 5cm at each side. This would have been fine if it wasn’t for the stiffer 100% cotton quilting fabric I used. However, this gave it too much bulk and the pleats don’t sit quite right.

I also think that when I was adjusting the fit of the pink floral one I only took it in on one side, hehehe oops! At least I know better now. Or maybe cause that point is was about 3am or something..

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My sewing teacher taught me how to finish things “nicely” so I edge-stitched my pleats (hoping that would help them keep their shape and maybe less ironing time) and box seams of the yoke as well.

I love edge-stitching/top-stitching!

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All up this was quite cheap for me as while I worked at Spotlight I picked up the best bargains and got both fabrics for around $2 a metre. Lining I bought when it was on special for maybe..$7.99 a metre?

I really like box pleats still and I continue to wear these skirts ! Maybe in the future I’ll think of some more fun ways to spice this up !

Teapot Skirt

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TEAPOT SKIRT !

A-line lined skirt with yoke.

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I made this pattern myself starting with a block pattern. From there I matched the darts off which automatically made it into an a-line skirt. I took some off the top of the pattern so that it would sit on my hips instead of my waist (because I find waist high extremely uncomfortable) and then cut a 10cm piece off around the pattern to create the yoke.

The material is 100% cotton from the quilting (double-blocked range) at Spotlight a few years ago. It’s quite a light material. For the lining I used the basic anti-static white fabric from Spotlight as well.

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I sewed this up the usual way:

1 – Interface the interfaced parts

2 – sewed yoke’s onto associated skirt part

3 – from here I pinned it around myself to make sure it fitted me well and cut it a little it in around the hips

4 – sewed on the invisible zip on the left side.

5 – sewed up the right side

6 – attached inside yoke’s to associated lining

7 – sewed up the right seam on the lining

8 – attached inside to outside

9 – sewed inside around zip

10 – hemmed it

oh.. and I also edge stitched around yoke/skirt edge and top edge

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