Top-Stitching

If cats looked like frogs we’d realize what nasty, cruel little bastards they are. Style. That’s what people remember.

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Coffee? Coffee. COFFEE !

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March was Miss Bossy Patterns for the Monthly Stitch. I’m a bit late, but honestly I did finish this about 3 weeks ago! Pictures were taken at Kat’s front door as she was taking picture for her her Sew Dolly Clackett Dress and she thought I could get away with this one being a little Dolly Clackett too, hence the crazy name! I read a lot of Terry Pratchett and I got this quote from the Discworld book Lords and Ladies.

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Next thing – thank you to everyone who voted for my Miss Bossy (Sorry it’s late!!). To be honest, I wasn’t entirely thrilled with this one since I usually wear more fuller skirts and when I first put it together it made me.. hmm.. angry haha! But after lots of hacking my sis and I fixed it.

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The pattern I used was Butterick B5032 with a shortened skirt. The pattern pieces I traced were waaaay too big for me – not sure if I measured myself wrong, or if just traced the wrong fabric or whether the pattern was all wrong or what, but it was SERIOUSLY too big for me.

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Since the bodice was sooooooooo much too big and the front was just one piece, we had to make princess seems down the front. Luckily, this gave the bodice a lot more shape, which helps with my bust size!

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I put the dress on backwards and Kat pinned down the middle, when I took it off I unpicked the bottom bust darts and measured how much fabric to take in at each new princess seam. I also brought it in a little bit more under the bust to give a little more shaping and I reckon I did pretty well 🙂

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The pic above is the front bodice facing and shows how much extra fabric there was! I mean common, WHY?!?!

So I just cut it in the middle and sewed it up which wasn’t all that pretty, but it’s on the inside so, whatevs!

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The fabric is quilting fabric 100% I got from the Arthur Toye closing down sale in Wellington Jan/Feb 2014. It was about 2.5m and used ALL OF IT, which is why the facing is a different fabric, but oh, so pretty, maybe I’ll use different facings every time now?!

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The fabric has coffee designs all over it. It makes me so happy. The dress is also really comfortable apart from the arm holes which could have been a little bigger at the bottom, so will probably give them another 1cm depth next time.

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The skirt front has 2 areas that have 3 pleats folded over on each other and gives it a nice little detail.

The pattern is also incredibly easy to put together and (before I hacked the bodice apart) only took a few hours to put together. It’s also a pretty cool design

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Oh, and FLAMINGO !!! This came to me from Fortune and Blame jewellery which Mel’s fashionable younger sister’s (FYS) owns and create things. The light is reflecting a bit off the bottle, but it has blue glitter and a pink flamingo in it!! So cool! Check her other jewellery, she makes some VERY cool resin stuff.

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Double the Pleats

I did sewing at high school through all the years. This is where I found I loved sewing and that there were so many possibilities ! I found so much inspiration going to class and seeing what everyone else was making, Have to say, made me enjoy school! I spent my lunch times and free periods in there and even stayed after school longer just so I could go hang out in the sewing room.

When I was there I fell in love with pleats. Not sure why, maybe it was seeing all the kilts around school…? So naturally I made some skirts with pleats, the first skirt I don’t have anymore, but it was maroon with 5 pleats on the left side and a yoke waist. I remember it clearly !

 One of the first things I made was a fully lined box pleated skirt (2 pleats on the front and 2 on the back). This was actually one of my favourite skirts. It was made of black Drill and had a bright pink tartan fabric inserted in the pleats. Since I made this in 7th form it has been well worn and through a couple of zip changes. It is well faded now though, sigh *sad face*.

In my second year of university I really wanted to make this pattern again, absolutely loved that skirt! However, I couldn’t follow the first pattern I made as I didn’t clearly label it and it was made of really thick paper. So I just remade the whole pattern, which was easier since I wasn’t putting a different fabric insert into the pleats.

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The pattern (if I remember this correctly since I did make it 4 years ago) started as a block pattern to my personal measurements. I then measured sellotaped the darts together and cut from the hem to the bottom of the dart in a straight line – creating an A-line pattern.

I measured 10cm from the top and cut this out all the way around which became my yoke.

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From here I measured the same distance from the centre front (CF) top to bottom and the same for the centre back (CB).

On these new lines I then measured 20cm away from the CF and CB which were the fabric for my box pleats.

For those who don’t know what a box pleat is, it’s when both sides of the pleat are folded in together. Box pleats can come as both inward and outward. However, I don’t really like box pleats that go the opposite way to this, probably because it reminds me of a really ugly school uniform I was made to wear.

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I like lined skirts.

And

I like invisible zips.

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I made the pink floral skirt first (see below) as soon as I made this pattern, and stayed up ’til about 5 in the morning finishing it, ah, the student life !

The blue one I starting making 2 years ago and came back to it midyear last year to complete.

I had made the pattern with an extra flare of about 5cm at each side. This would have been fine if it wasn’t for the stiffer 100% cotton quilting fabric I used. However, this gave it too much bulk and the pleats don’t sit quite right.

I also think that when I was adjusting the fit of the pink floral one I only took it in on one side, hehehe oops! At least I know better now. Or maybe cause that point is was about 3am or something..

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My sewing teacher taught me how to finish things “nicely” so I edge-stitched my pleats (hoping that would help them keep their shape and maybe less ironing time) and box seams of the yoke as well.

I love edge-stitching/top-stitching!

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All up this was quite cheap for me as while I worked at Spotlight I picked up the best bargains and got both fabrics for around $2 a metre. Lining I bought when it was on special for maybe..$7.99 a metre?

I really like box pleats still and I continue to wear these skirts ! Maybe in the future I’ll think of some more fun ways to spice this up !